TRAVELS of "HELIOPAUSE"

Milwaukee, WI – Chicago, IL, DuSable Marina – Oct 9, 2021

Too many marinas for our liking.  We can’t wait till we are off the Lakes.  The weather is changing tonight to a poor outlook for travel so we know we have to get to Chicago.  Leaving Milwaukee harbour we are greeted to a slow and quiet Lake Michigan.  There is still the roll that comes from large bodies of water but the conditions are amazing.  We run to Chicago in about 6 hours at 8 knts.  8 knts is our comfortable speed and great gas mileage.  Scott has always said that you either have time or money while traveling on a boat.  When you work you always need to be somewhere at a certain time and when you have the time you take the time to conserve.  It is proving to be a true statement. 

It was such a nice cruising day.  As we approach Chicago from the west the city skyline comes into view.  It was a patchy, fog arrival with sailboats out enjoying the light winds and calm waters.  Cruise and tour boats are out with folks enjoying the sights.  Rounding into the harbour the main lighthouse is a sight.  The harbour at Chicago is a harbour, within a harbour.  With the strong waves from Lake Michigan the city has established a large open area where you can boat as if on a small lake, then you round another harbour to enter into where the marinas and anchorages are.  We do need groceries and want to see the city so we will be taking a slip at DuSable Marina. 

DuSable Marina is the closest marina to the city.  It is also closest to the first lock to enter the Chicago River and head downtown.  The marina has everything you need for a city stop.  The boardwalk along the river is at the end of your dock with locks and security patrolling.  A code will get you into your dock when you leave to visit the sights. 

It is late in the day so we have dinner and call it a day.  We will be here for a couple nights so we can enjoy just a bit of the city. 

The night lights do not disappoint.  Simply spectacular with the tall buildings.  It was such a warm night we had dinner out on the deck and watched dusk fall into night with the city coming alive with the light show. 

Kauwanee, WI, city wall  – Sheboygeon, WI, – Oct 7, 2021

It’s a 5 hour run south to Sheboygeon, WI. Again getting an early start we head out the channel again with those pesky easterlies on our beam.  We are met with some heavier winds than yesterday but Heliopause can handle them.  Me not so much.  A lot of time was spent with my eyes closed on the couch in a prone state.  Ralph factor 7.  It’s has become a new call sign for how bad the seasickness is. 

The trip south is open water again about 10 miles offshore.  There isn’t much story to tell about this trip as it is routine with the open waters of Lake Michigan. 

Rounding the harbour of Sheboygeon there is an open area for anchoring but at this point we are just going to the marina.  The winds have picked up and the fog is rolling in and rain predicted.   The marina finds us our slip.

We decided to head into the harbour boardwalk where the entire area has been upgraded.  Lake Michigan is still high and the docks that normally are available for docking are underwater.  There are no docking signs on both the north and south side of the harbour.  We find a quaint store and pick up some extra tasties for our pantry.  Fresh soup ready for a cold night, which we have had a couple here and there. 

Walking around town in the quaint streets with not many people was a treat.   It was drizzling by now but we managed to wander and explore.  Eventually, we head back to the marina.

This marina is by far the best marina we have ever seen.  Not only did it have a 60 ft dock for HP, 50 amp power, it was clean, had a great view, a convenience store, restrooms, laundry facilities.  You name it, it is here.  I did do laundry to catch up.  As the rain started we headed out to the heated pool and spa.  No one was there.  So we changed in the heated separate change rooms, jumped in the warm pool and swam laps and had some fun for over an hour.  Then the hot tub awaited.  We stayed in there longer than we probably should have.  It was rejuvenating though with all the logistics, planning, ups and downs all behind us. 

By this point it is dinner so off to relax, grab a sundowner and wait out the rain. 

Hotel Quattro, Sault Ste Marine, ON to Sturgeon Bay, WI by plane and shuttle – Oct 5, 2021

Flights booked, shuttle booked to get to the airport.  Check out at 7:30 am.  We both pinch ourselves.  Up until now we were not sure exactly which plan was going to pan out.  This has been a long few weeks and the day is here, finally.

Flight at The Soo was turned around in Toronto due to a malfunction.  We were instructed that we would have to wait until a new flight made the trek north.  Okay, grab another coffee.  At least there is wifi. 

Finally get on the flight and we are told that we won’t make our connection so the agent books that for a later connection.  Dang.  We really wanted to have the time to stock up and get situated coming in around 5:30.  Now it will be 10:00 pm.  Call the shuttle driver to be sure he can pick us up.  Check.

Easy flight to Toronto and we grab lunch.  I packed our lunch and it came in handy.  Now we have a 4 hour layover.  We find a quiet spot by ourselves and wait for the flight to Chicago. 

On time, yay.  It’s around 4:00 and a little over an hour to Chicago.  I think the taxying on the tarmac took longer than the flight did.  O’Hare is a large as they say.  Finally in.  No luggage for us as we travel with carry on only.

Our final leg of this journey is a flight from Chicago to Green Bay, WI.  Another hour flight. We will land late as we were held up on the Chicago runway waiting in a long line of flights to take off.  The shuttle driver followed us on our flight for landing time. 

Landing in around 10:15 we now have a shuttle drive to the marina where Heliopause waits for us.  Can’t wait to be home.  The shuttle was about 45 minutes. 

All this time we are traveling so is the Captain and crew.  We had to book everything.  So they took a shuttle from Sturgeon Bay to Green Bay, jumped on an Amtrak train to Chicago, then a taxi to home.  Yes they made it without a hiccup.  I think we are hired for future planning.

There she was.  Standing so elegant in the night with her lights on.  Thanks Captain Karl from At the Helm.  So thankful right now.  Change sheets, grab a shower and head to bed.  It’s a good day!

Hilton Beach, ON – Drummond Island, MI – Sturgeon Bay WI – Oct 2

Best news ever.  Sault Ste Marie, MI is giving out cruising permits.  Just heard that they just issued one yesterday.  So I was all over that getting names, numbers and what we needed to get this done.  The day is looking up and we are super excited about this development.

Scott says the engines are ready to have their filters changed so he heads off to the engine room to do maintenance.  I prepare the berths for the 2 crew coming onboard.  We had stocked up on food in Tobermory and made sure to have the Captain’s favourites.  Cleaning up inside and making sure it is presentable, after a few weeks living aboard, was very much in need.  Changing all linens and towels, prepping the galley, windows cleaned…..check.

By the time we are done we have a couple hours before the Captain arrives.  We pack up what we will need to head to the hotel in The Soo.  We will be taking their taxi back to the hotel. 

We did get a ride back to The Soo, ON and stayed at the hotel on pins and needles wondering if the Captain would have the ability to get a cruising permit.  Waiting, waiting, waiting for the call.  Finally, Scott gets a call from the head of the port of entry area on his day off, no less and it’s Sunday.  The director was quick to reference to us that this was something that we had to arrange before the Captain arrived but he would let us have the permit after asking many questions to fill out the paperwork.  He was so accommodating and kind.  A huge thank you to him.

Once we received the number for the cruising permit our plans changed.  Now the Captain can to take HP to Sturgeon Bay, WI because we are now able to drive ourselves.  That was the best news we have heard on this journey from St. Catharines.  We always knew that Chicago plan would be okay but this news makes our dream work.  So now the Captain heads out from Drummond Island, MI at the port of entry and starts heading south.  Heading south as a nice ring to it.

Somewhere in Lake Michigan Heliopause will jump the timezone and be in Central Time rather than Eastern Time making her an hour behind us.

We are at the hotel for the next 3 days until Heliopause makes her way to an area that can get our Captain home easily by plane.  We figure Sturgeon Bay is a good fit being close enough to Green Bay, WI. We make plans for our flights from The Soo, ON to Green Bay, WI and a shuttle to Sturgeon Bay.  Literally planes, trains, and automobiles yet again.

Tobermory, ON, Little Tub Harbour – Eagle Island, anchorage – Sept 30, 2021

We’ve been on plane the last few days and this is no exception.  We are heading along the south of Manitoulin Island, missing some of the most beautiful places to cruise.  We do eventually start to head north as we come into Little Current. 

In Little Current there is a one way swing bridge that opens for 15 minutes on the hour for boaters to travel through.  Timing is important as the bridgemaster will not deviate from this schedule.  We had forgotten this bit of information.  So we did have to wait for about 45 minutes.  No problem, it’s lunch time.  Scott managed to have a down time for lunch without “eating at his desk” and enjoy a bit of reprieve from being Captain. 

The bridge was swung open and we were off through the town of Little Current.  Cute, small town that now is excited to have a Tim’s.  There is grocery close to the city wall, laundry, LCBO, restaurants and whatever you need as you travel west.  There are marinas available if you have issues with your boat as well.

As our fuel should be topped up for the Captain we take a side trip to Muldrum Bay, ON.  In the past while there in 2015 everything was closed.  We called ahead to discover that diesel and gas are available and a full service marina along with a campground has been built up.  The marina has now a management husband and wife team overseeing the property.  Muldrum Bay has 52 residents and is a great stop for the restaurant and if you choose the anchorage or marina. 

We pass the Benjamin Islands a natural, granite rock that is pink.  I’m not sure how it got its name but cruisers love this area.  Mainly because of the pink granite against the black waters of the North Channel.  Note that the water is black because of tannins.  It is naturally clean water but has some many millennials of organic matter that turns the water a blackish tone. 

We find our way into Eagle Island anchorage and enjoy the warm sunny late afternoon.  Tonight we can’t wait to see the stars.  It was a lazy afternoon on the bow with sundowners and appies.

We were greeted with a sunset, sounds of cicadas, crickets, birds and a loon.  Later that evening the milky way showed up and a starry night that we haven’t seen in a long time.  A recharge for us as we end our journey tomorrow.

Sarnia ON, Sarnia Bay Marina – Kincardine, ON, Kincardine Marina – Sept 28, 2021

Window maybe…..comfortable not even close.  Winds were westerlies.  Hitting us beam all day.  Our plan was to do a full day to Tobermory, ON.  We had no time to doddle at this point because the Captain had been set up for a pickup in The Soo. 

Winds and waves were not fun.  I call it the Ralph Factor.  Today the Ralph Factor was a good and steady 7-8.  I didn’t see much as I stayed quietly on the couch waiting for “we’re here” command.  Scott doesn’t get seasick so he was fine but even he said it was not a good day.  We only made it to Kincardine, ON.  Tomorrow was to be a better travel day so we made arrangements at the quaint marina in Kincardine. 

It has everything you need.  Fuel is a bugger to get into if you have anything over 40 feet.  There is no turn around room and the docks and slips are way too tight at the fuel dock.  No fuel for us anyway as we did fill up in Sarnia after the storms.  We were slipped into the T dock for the night and watched a beautiful sunset.  Kincardine has some of the most picturesque sunsets you will ever see. 

Unfortunately we are now on a schedule which was something we did not want to do.  This border shut down has decided our fate and we will roll with it but it doesn’t mean we have to like it.  So a quick overnight stay and an early morning we are headed to Tobermory, ON. 

Windsor, ON, Riverside Marina – Sarnia ON, Sarnia Bay Marina – Sept 20, 2021

The storms are coming but we do have a window to make the trek to Sarnia, ON.  So glad we made the choice to not stay in Leamington, ON as the winds kicked up on Lake Erie and there was no way we would have left.

We both really enjoy the Detroit River.  Lots of open area, with the odd laker ship passing by, beautiful homes on both the US side and the Canadian side of the river.  During this time we are very careful to not dip our keel into the US side for long, favouring the Canadian side of the River.  We pass both Detroit with its tall towers and skyscrapers, the General Motors Headquarters standing front and centre and Windsor with its cute town atmosphere and of course the casino.  Note that docking is not allowed on either city waterfront.  It looks so inviting. 

Traveling past the city waterfronts the remaining portion of the river is industrial, homes, parks and boardwalks.  It’s a quiet trip.

We noted the winds were picking up so as we approached Sarnia Bay Marina we made the choice to not get fuel and wait out the winds.  Calling up Jeff, the harbourmaster, we ask for assistance getting in.  We are greeted with 2 helping hands and new friends from the adjacent slip.  The winds are from the south so they are pushing us into the dock.  That helped.

Sarnia Bay Marina is a well kept marina with clean restrooms, laundry, power, water.  It is a little out of the city so having bikes help.  Jeff and the crew at the harbour office are the best.  Always ready to accommodate the boaters. 

The winds didn’t subside for almost 4 days.  So we were here longer than expected.  Good to know we were in good hands.

Long Point, Anchorage – Port Stanley, City Dock – Sept 18, 2021

Waking up to a stunning sunrise on anchor we begin our day with the usual breakfast.  Off to Port Stanley with calm waters and a long day of travel.  We do tend to stay around 7.5 knts unless running a storm or on a tight schedule.  Port Stanley is a good 6 hours away at that speed.  With the winds extremely fair we watch the Lake Erie bluffs pass by, the windmills aplenty and the ripples of the few waves we see. 

Arriving at Port Stanley the commercial walls are very inviting.  Large tractor tires align the walls making for an interesting dockage.  The bridgemaster who opens the bridge to Kettle Creek every 30 minutes joins us to open the power outlet.  The pedestals have both 30 and 50 amps.  No water though.  The town is at your fingertips at this point.  We decide to head out for a walk into town, the beach and just pass by some cute shops.  It isn’t busy due to covid but it is easy to see this little town is set up for lots of tourists. 

There are 2 beaches, the main one to the west and a smaller one with shade trees to the east.  You can walk the pier or meander down streets showing a century of homes, cottages and times of old.  No basements in most of these little homes as they seem to be directly on sand. 

After dinner we hop into the dingy and head on down Kettle Creek.  There are several marinas in here with back in tie and pillars.  Not much for the transient.  Very shallow at points however there are some 48 footers tied off at their seasonal slips.  We decided we would not have brought Heliopause into this creek.  It is too unpredicatable in its depths.  Local knowledge would be an asset.  Kettle Creek is very nice to ride down on the dingy  Passing several geese migrating for their trek south and having their own dinner we meander down the river for about 3 km.  Boats and dead heads, along with tree covered shorelines disguising homes tucked into the brush make for a pleasant night cruise.

Heading back to the boat in the harbour we pass several large Searays making their way back to their slips.  Still a beautiful boat.  Back on Heliopause we lift the dingy and settle in for a night cap and good night’s sleep.